Bubble Level Online Open the level →

Home › Guides

How to level a washing machine

Updated July 3, 2026 · 10-minute job

A washer that isn't level walks across the floor, bangs against the wall on spin, and slowly chews through its own bearings and shock absorbers. The fix is one of the best ten-minute jobs in home maintenance — and the only measuring tool you need is already in your pocket.

Open the free bubble level
Runs in your browser — no app install. Works on any phone.

What you'll need

Step by step

  1. Prepare. Empty the drum, unplug the machine, and pull it out far enough to reach all four feet. If it's a brand-new machine, confirm the transit bolts on the back have been removed — a washer with transit bolts in will shake violently no matter how level it is.
  2. Measure the tilt. Lay your phone flat in the middle of the washer top. The level reads tilt in both directions at once — note which way it leans and by how much.
  3. Level side to side first. The front feet on nearly every washer are threaded: loosen the locknut, then screw the foot out to raise that corner or in to lower it. Work until the side-to-side reading is 0.0°.
  4. Then front to back. Many washers have self-leveling rear feet — tilt the machine forward a few inches and set it back down, and they adjust themselves. If the rear feet are threaded, set them the same way as the front.
  5. Rock test. Push down firmly on opposite top corners, then the other pair. Any rocking means one foot isn't carrying weight — adjust that foot until the machine is planted.
  6. Lock everything. Tighten each locknut up against the cabinet. Skip this and spin vibration will slowly unscrew your careful work.
  7. Spin test. Run a short cycle with a small load at high spin. It should hum, not hammer. Re-check the level afterwards — a machine that was badly off may settle slightly.

Front-loader? They spin faster and are far less forgiving of tilt than top-loaders. Get both axes inside half a degree — the 0.1° readout on the phone level is exactly what you want here.

If the floor is the real problem

Feet give you roughly an inch of adjustment. If your floor slopes more than that, don't max out one corner — the machine ends up standing on tip-toe. Better options: rubber anti-vibration pads under the feet, or a 3/4-inch plywood platform shimmed level for genuinely bad floors (common in older basements).

FAQ

Why does my washing machine shake violently during spin?

Four usual suspects: an unbalanced load (one soaked towel), transit bolts still in a new machine, feet that aren't level or locked, or a springy wooden floor. Leveling fixes the most common case.

How level does it need to be?

Aim for dead level in both directions — within about half a degree. Most manuals specify 1° as the maximum acceptable tilt.

Can I really use my phone for this?

Yes. Phone accelerometers resolve tilt to a fraction of a degree — plenty for appliance work. Open the level, calibrate it once on a surface you trust, and lay the phone flat on the washer.

Do the rear feet adjust?

Often they're self-leveling: tilt the washer forward a few inches and set it down. Threaded rear feet adjust like the front ones.

What if my floor slopes badly?

Use anti-vibration pads or a leveled plywood platform instead of running one foot to the end of its thread.

More guides